There is a certain sense of swooning nostalgia we have for small towns, especially if we didn‘t come from them. Our idyllic fascinations of places which reflect a sense of history are many times marred by the reality of what some have become. The charm we hope for are nowadays replaced by fast food chains or that big box retailer. While many towns have struggled to maintain their roots, Bisbee, AZ has retained all its antiquated charm meeting any expectations one might have and exceeding them.
Bisbee is located a brisk 90 miles south of Tucson Int’l Airport via the 10 to Route 80. The drive passes through Tombstone, a town immortalized by Wyatt Earp’s Gunfight at the O.K. Coral depicted in the film aptly titled, Tombstone. Bisbee, founded in 1880, was once a booming mine town of 20,000 people which was once considered the “the largest and most cultured city between St. Louis and San Francisco”. After a fire swept through Bisbee 1908, most of the town had to be rebuilt. Specializing in cooper, silver, gold and some turquoise Bisbee’s population had decreased exponentially even before the mine closures in 1974. What could have developed into a ghost town, although Bisbee is known for its fair share of paranormal activity, Bisbee was discovered by artist and hippies in the 70s. Drawn in by cheap rents and the turn of the century architecture, Bisbee became a burgeoning and eclectic art community that it still is today.
Rebuilt before the mass production of the automobile, Bisbee has a very walkable, European feel, while retaining its Victorian and Art Deco roots. With its cascading staircases and hilly terrain, it can sometimes be a hike. Yet with the distractions of the local street art and some of the best vintage and antique stores you will ever stepped foot in, you won’t care to notice. Apropos to conventional wisdom about most of Southern Arizona‘s blistering summer heat, Bisbee’s climate is mild year round. This generalization causes many places to shut down in the summer for lack of tourist, despite being a great escape from the desert heat.
For a population just above 6,000 people, Bisbee is also home to a diverse mix of restaurants that rival those of their big city counter parts. Ranging from the organic, locally grown fare of the High Desert Market and Café to the Gourmet cuisine of the award winning Café Roka, Bisbee holds its own when it comes to culinary delights. With an array of great places to eat and activities like Queen Mine Tour which takes you 1,000 feet into an ore mine or the Lavender Jeep tours, it is worth staying for at least a couple of days. Yet despite the many quaint bed and breakfasts, inns, or the supposedly haunted Copper Queen Hotel (which is an obvious choice to some) there is only one place to stay to truly get the full Bisbee experience. That place is the is the vintage trailer park known as The Shady Dell.
Located just a 1 1/2 from the Old Bisbee, a drive which gives an incredible view of the excavated Lavender Mine pit, The Shady Dell is a throwback to a different era. Boasting 10, mostly aluminum, mid-century trailers and a docked yacht, The Shady Dell is the closest thing to entering a time warp. Each trailer is vintage to a tee and not in a reproduced kitschy way. Each trailer features authentic period detail down from the genuine glasses and drink stirrers, to the round televisions, or the phonograph spinning records from the likes of the Rat Pack and Johnny Cash. Staying at the Shady Dell is the closest one can get to feeling what it was like in, or get chance to relive, this bygone era.
Established in 1927 as just another RV park for travelers taking Route 80, the trailers are now the destination. Many of these shrines to the open road sport their own themes. The Polynesian themed Tiki Bus can sleep 3 and features a wooden, hand carved tiki bar for all your outdoor Mai Tai needs. The 1949 Airstream, which was used in an issue of Bride’s Magazine, is made for the honeymooners. Featuring a photo album of vintage wedding pictures, this Airstream sleeps two love birds rather nicely. The Shady Dell sometimes accommodates entire wedding parties that rent out the whole park.
When I stayed at the Shady Dell I opted for the Royal Mansion. This aluminum trailer has an interior of rich blonde wood with cheetah carpeting to boot. The Mansion has a stocked, full kitchen with a fridge and a green leather breakfast booth, a great place to kick back and eat after grilling on one of the Shady Dell’s BBQs. Even though Bisbee has an active night life, why go out when you have your martini shaker and glasses? Relax in the living area and cozy up on the green sofa to watch a classic 3D movie on the vintage set, 3D glasses included. Or why not skim through the collection of vinyl LPs and 45s, listening to the great sounds of yore, sipping down your freshly shaken martini while reading the “latest” issue of LIFE magazine?
The crown jewel on the property has to be the Chris Craft Yacht. This docked, 38 foot beauty is made for those who have nostalgic desire for the sea but cannot cope without the aide of Dramamine. Judging by the complementary champagne in the fridge, this yacht is also meant for a romantic evening. The yacht is also equipped with a phonograph player featuring LPs from the 40’s but the galley of this ship is also adorned with nautical treasures that would make any oceanic enthusiast feel right at home. The yacht is placed away from the rest of the trailers and has the most private feel with a covered roof and a private dock with its own BBQ grill.
The 1957 Airfloat, trailer is only trailer to have its own shower but a good portion of the trailers have their own bathroom. There are large and accommodating male and female bathrooms with shower facilities on the premises.
With all wonder The Shady Dell has to offer it would not be fair to the faint of heart not to mention the fact that it is adjacent to a graveyard. This fact might be something you can cover up to your significant other if you check in at night, but if they look out that window it may cause a sleepless night. So it is best to know, or warn your guest ahead of time.
Among the many culinary treasures in Bisbee, you can’t stay at The Shady Dell without having breakfast or lunch at Dot’s Diner. Situated on the property Dot’s Diner is an authentic 1957 Valentine Diner once called “Burger Barn No. 3”. Valentine Manufacturing Co., based out of Kansas City, started out making White Castle’s but soon began making prefabricated diners which where shipped to their intended destination. This diner used to sit on the corner of Ventura and Topanga Canyon in Los Angeles’ San Fernando Valley.
The road to Bisbee was a tumultuous one for Dot’s. After being neglected for years after its closing it was discovered by the owners of the Shady Dell, moved to Bisbee via a flatbed truck, and given a loving restoration which took over 6 months. Opening in May of 97, Dot’s opened with the namesake of the cook Dot Bozeman. Although she is no longer the helm of the diner, her spirit lives on with no frills breakfast and burgers where flavor takes precedent over any form of fancy plating.
Bisbee is by no means a typical destination. It embodies a vast array of titles and histories, giving the visitor the ability to delve into both the past while also giving one the chance to lay their eyes on something that is sadly rare this day in age. A place that can constructively look to the future while retaining its character and rich history. Now what are you waiting for?

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